Overview: Few hikes on Earth surround you with such grandeur over the entire length of the hike. Starting from the top, this hike takes you on a million-year journey through geologic time. From open pasture lands on top of the plateau, the river slowly slices into the Earth, sinking deeper and deeper below the stone walls on either side. Gradually, the shorelines grow smaller and smaller, the walls grow taller and taller, and you find yourself in an grand, enormous hallway of beautifully carved stone. It is truly like being in an Indiana Jones movie. The drama continues for miles, as corner after corner reveals more surprises and wonders of this unique and magical place.
******The Overnight Thru-Hike requires a permit from the Backcountry Desk at the Visitor's Center. 12 campsite permits are available each night. The Park Service allows a limited number of parties to reserve permits on-line. Permits begin at $5 and vary with group size (group charges began in 2004). Summer thru-hikers often show up at the Visitor's Center at 5 a.m. to wait in line for permits the day before their hike. The Park only issues permits to party members; you can’t have someone else get your permit for your group.
Trailhead: Reserve a commercial shuttle or arrange your own shuttle to Chamberlain's Ranch. Most feel a commercial shuttle is worth the money, saving them a 3-hour round-trip journey and some logistical headaches. Click here for directions to Chamberlain's Ranch.
Mileage: 16 miles (25.7 km), one-way
Elevation Loss: 1,189 feet (361 meters)
Approximate Hike Time: Two 6- to 8-hour days, plus time for explorations of side canyons, swimming holes, and lounging in the sun
Difficulty: Moderate. The hiking is not hard on your heart, but 16 miles of river hiking can take a toll on your ankles and your concentration. Prepare for this hike with good equipment, nutrition, and hydration. The hike becomes easier as you learn the best techniques for negotiating the river's hidden terrain.
Best Times of Day: Most Overnight Thru-Hikers leave Chamberlain's Ranch by 11:00 a.m. or earlier. This means leaving Springdale by 9:30 a.m. or earlier. The location of your campsite has a significant effect on the length of both Day 1 and Day 2; plan departure times around your campsite location. (i.e. If you reserve Campsite #12, the furthest camp along the river, you may want to arrange a 6:30 a.m. departure rather than a 9:30 a.m. departure.)
Best Times of Year: May through mid-November is the best window for this hike. The road to Chamberlain's Ranch is often inaccessible December - April. See our detailed table for seasonal specifics.
Crowds: Though you may see a few folks around, there is more than enough room for everyone. The campsites are well-spaced; you will have your sandbar to yourself. When you start seeing crowds walking upstream on Day 2, you know you are close to the Temple.
Water Sources: The Virgin River flows through the Narrows year-round. For your own safety, purify all water before drinking (including spring water).
Camping: You must camp at the site reserved by your permit. Campsites are marked with small, brown plastic posts; they can be difficult to see if you are not paying attention. Use the campsite description, the map, and a keen awareness to make sure you don't miss camp.
Don’t Miss:
- Check out Bulloch's Cabin, an old homestead near the beginning of the hike. The roof defines the word "warped."
- Shortly after Campsite #1, you come across a beautiful 12-foot waterfall. Hike AROUND the falls to enjoy the views from the cold pool below.
- Deep Creek junctions with the Narrows near Campsite #2, bring 2/3rds of the water volume into the North Fork of the Virgin River.
- Big Springs provides a lush, scenic rest stop, complete with a perfect swimming hole. You'll know Big Springs when you see it - a gushing mound of dark rock, covered with greenery. Once you hike past Big Springs, you may begin seeing Bottom-Up Hikers.
- Orderville Canyon is a tremendous opportunity for challenging adventure. Just two miles from Temple of Sinawava, Orderville splits off to the left (facing down-canyon) and offers a narrow canyon full of obstacles to solve. Boulders, waterfalls, and pools block your progress upstream, but determined groups solve most of these problems to continue on. Eventually, you may reach "The Guillotine," an ominous boulder chocked between the canyon walls 25' above you.
Special Notes:
- Be prepared to carry out your poop, as there is no reasonable place for human waste to abide or decompose in the canyon! The Park requires use of human waste carry-out bags for all thru-hikers.
- Summertime temperatures in the Narrows can drop signficantly at night (40 - 50 degrees F). Bring extra layers (and keep them dry) to assure a warm, comfortable night under the stars.
- It is NOT SAFE to jump off rocks into pools in the Narrows. Each year, the Park Service rescues people who break legs and ankles 8 miles into (and 8 miles out of) the Narrows. A broken leg can mean a 12- to 36-hour wait for help, an 8-mile jostling stretcher journey, and an abrupt end to your vacation.
- If you choose to self-shuttle, take care to remember your keys and put them in a safe place!
Reserve a NPS Backcountry Permit Online