Kim and Dan Visit The Wave

The Wave is a spectacular and world-renowned site located in the backcountry border of Utah and Arizona. A trip there is a magical experience. Getting everything in order to go there is quite another.

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Hiking the Wave requires a permit, obtained through the Arizona Strip BLM at the Kanab Office or at the Paria Ranger Station (summer only). Only twenty hikers may access this resource each day. Ten of the permits are assigned four months in advance through an online lottery. The remaining ten permits are issued through a walk-in lottery the day before the hike. Obtaining a permit is competitive. You may compete against as many as a thousand people in the online lottery, and a hundred in the walk-in drawing. As you can imagine, being a lucky winner is quite a thrill.

To obtain my permit, I entered the next day lottery. Individuals showing up at 9 am for the next day are considered in the drawing. The intensity in the room while your number is drawn from a bingo ball was penetrating. There were 21 names submitted and only 10 names were permitted to enter the Coyote Butte South area to the Wave. The sixth ball drawn, eight individuals and I had still not been chosen. The seventh ball, my heart racing, I began to doubt I would be chosen this time. I had six people on my permit and not all of us would be able to go. As the seventh ball was drawn they called out the lucky number 7 and immediately Dave pipes up, “Can we change our permit number for two people?” Our remaining four would have to try for another time. I chose Dudeman Dan to come along.

The day began 7:00AM at Zion Adventure Company meeting Dudeman and driving the three hours to get to the Wire Pass trailhead. There were two ways to get to the trailhead. We took 89A to get there and the directions were not clear for the turn off. We missed our turn by six miles anticipating the House Rock sign, which was not there. The sign was posted as BLM 1165 and down the road 200 yards read a sign House Rock. The road was a nice dirt road (as far as backroads go) fit for any vehicle. We drove for nine miles until the Wire Pass trailhead. One thing worth mentioning that Dave and I got a good laugh at was the ranger, the day before, mentioned there are footsteps, but it does not mean its the correct way. There are cairns, but they do not mean it is the correct way. There are GPS coordinates, but they do not mean it’s the correct way. My mind was left with breadcrumbs because everything useful was eliminated from the list. At that moment, the ranger pulled out his map for each of us to utilize. It gave accurate pictures and descriptions with waypoints to and from the Wave, a highly useful tool.

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We arrived at the trailhead at 10:30 am and began our journey. There were several cars already in the parking lot and people en route before we got there. The walk out there was not a difficult hike. The terrain was an easy walk along a pretty well marked path in the beginning, however after awhile it crossed over to slick rock with no obvious markers. Utilizing the map at that point is critical; watching and matching up the waypoints was really helpful. Once we could see the big crack in the rock, we were able to pinpoint our destination and know the direction we needed to go. We arrived after an hour of hiking, taking pictures, and shedding layers.

At 11:35 there were photographers stationed at every angle, alley, and ledge. The ranger predicted that one as well, reminding us to please be courteous of others when taking pictures. The lighting is best at 12:00 noon and we, the novices, made it just in time, but not to stake out the best spots without interference. Dudeman and I opted to take the places with less people and come back, however, we missed the prime time for photos. Our eyes feasted on the wondrous and awe-inspiring views of Mother Nature. Keeping our eyes wandering in amazement, so many different elements created this majestic view with water, wind, and erosion. Like little kids we explored every nook and cranny snapping photos around every corner.

Dudeman and I continued west down into the Paria Canyon through the wash heading south. We explored the area looking to find any petroglyphs, dinosaur footprints, or spectacular views. We did find small springs and slow seepages, which created an oasis of manzanita, pine trees, and other plants, found where there was water. One of the cliffs has markings of a waterfall from wetter times and many of the cliffs around puzzled us where to find petroglyphs. We were not so lucky. The rocks were masked with wide array of colors and pin stripping in straight lines, swirls, and of course, waves.

After an hour of exploration we returned to the main attraction area and the masses had exited leaving only one foreign couple. We sat and contemplated the immense time and work that was used to create a work of art.

For more information go to the BLM webpage.

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ZAC Field Trip: Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend and More

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Woohoo! Photo: Scott Rollins

Our most recent staff field trip took us east by southeast and over the state line into Arizona where we visited Horseshoe Bend, Upper Antelope Canyon and Upper Water Holes Canyon.

We met at the shop on a beautiful Monday morning, excited to begin this adventure. After some opening words and a short brief from our fearless leader, Dave, we all piled in a large Sprinter Van and got on our way. Good laughs, conversation, and freshly baked cookies consumed our 2-hour drive.

Our first official field trip stop was Horseshoe Bend. Located just 4 miles southwest of Page, AZ, Horseshoe Bend is aptly named for the horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River in this area. The hike to the overlook point is short (less than a mile) and seems like a bargain for the breath-taking view of the canyon. Our group reveled in the incredible view of the river and canyon.

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Horseshoe Bend, just down the Colorado River from the Glen Canyon Dam. Photo: Scott Rollins

It’s hard to convey what it feels like looking down hundreds of feet below you, watching boats the size of ants maneuver in the crystal clear river. You begin to wonder how in the world something so magnificent came to be and at the same time try to figure out how standing above this river bend can make you feel so incredibly small and big at the same time.

After much photo taking we walked back to the van and continued on our adventure. Photography Tip: Folks who want to capture the entire bend in a photo will need a very wide-angle lens.

Our next stop on the field trip was Upper Antelope Canyon, located near Page, AZ on Navajo Land. Upper Antelope is the most visited and most photographed slot canyon in the American Southwest due to its gorgeous natural features and easy accessibility.

After purchasing the necessary Upper Antelope Canyon permits our group met up with Navajo Guide, Bonnie. She gave us a short, but informative briefing on the canyon, and then directed us to pile into the back of a pick up truck, modified with open-air seating and a roof for shade. Everyone enjoyed the slightly bumpy, breezy ride to the canyon.

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As we entered Upper Antelope Canyon our group was once again wow-ed by the beauty of nature. Watching the sunlight reach down and touch the sloping, smooth, red-orange-purple canyon walls is an awe-inducing experience. As we journeyed slowly through the slot Bonnie shared with us the history of Upper Antelope and coached us to photo-taking brilliance. Our group of ZAC staff members, who have seen so many beautiful canyons, were blown away by the splendor of this canyon. Upper Antelope is a must see canyon! Photography Tip: Play around with the exposure settings on your camera for the best photo…better yet, ask your guide to help you select an appropriate camera setting, remember they guide thousands of photo-taking visitors through this canyon every year!

I feel as though I am becoming a bit long-winded in the telling of this adventurous day, so please allow me to sum up Upper Water Holes Canyon in a few brief sentences. Visiting Upper Water Holes, located on Navajo land, requires a permit. This canyon, while not as overwhelmingly beautiful as Upper Antelope, provides a more physically engaging experience. Our group traveled easily in the canyon, at times providing partner-assists and spotting for each other through the trickier sections. Remember, don’t go up anything you won’t be able to safely descend at the end of the day. Photography Tip: Avoid getting sand in your camera.

Overall the ZAC staff had a great time and learned a lot on this field trip to Arizona. We encourage you to get out and experience some of the same stunning areas that we did, especially considering they are only a short drive from Zion. Happy exploring!

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Gear Review: FiveTen Anasazi High-Top Climbing Shoe

When FiveTen and Dean Potter went to work making a shoe to crank twenty pitches a day in, they came up with the Anasazi Hi-Top. A stiffer, more plush climbing shoe meant to soothe your aching feet as you stuff them deep into whatever crack system you are scaling in Yosemite. Fortunately, climbing shoes designed for granite are awesome in sandstone as well.

The Anasazi Hi-Top crack climbing shoes from FiveTen

The Anasazi Hi-Top from FiveTen

The Anasazi Hi-Top fits the bill for an all-around desert shoe. It’s stiff, sticky, comfortable, and sized correctly, based on a last Chris McNamara calls his “cheating shoe.” But most importantly, it covers your ankles. Anyone at Indian Creek, Zion, or Red Rocks will tell you ankles bones are only to make you suffer more as you stuff your feet as deeply as possible into whatever crack you are ascending. That only sightly protuberant part of your ankle is constantly grinding into the lip of the crack. It’s not fun, you get a bloody spot that eventually scabs over only be cracked and ground bloody again and again. Hi-tops are an obvious solution to this problem.Most people will tell you you need to rush out and buy a pair of TC Pros from La Sportiva, almost universally held up as the “greatest trad shoe ever.” Now competitors – FiveTen’s Anasazi Hi-Top and Evolv’s Astroman – are trying to take the throne from the TC Pro.

I decided to try the FiveTens for a variety of reasons, but it really came down to ease of use and stickiness of rubber. I know Tommy Caldwell can take a pair of bowling shoes and send my project without breaking a sweat. However, I struggle very much with only being a mediocre climber who really enjoys trad in the 5.10-5.11 range and only infrequently gets to send 5.12 on gear, let alone 5.14. Quite frankly, I need and attempt to gather every advantage I can amass for when I get on the sharp end. The Stealth C4 rubber is so sticky. I have had shoes with just about everything, but my hardest climbs have always had C4 on the sole of my shoe. I am hardly a brand loyalist, and if I had to be honest sometimes the last on FiveTen shoes leave a lot to be desired for my foot. The rubber, however, is not the problem.

The other reason the Ansazi Hi-top seemed like the shoe for me is the velcro closure. It’s fast and easy, and with three straps, it gets tight in there. Also, cracks chew through laces like a pit bull through rawhide. Although you can you can always just replace them, the straps on my Hi-Tops are burly urathane backed leather and are not going anywhere. The upper material is similarly durable, thick suede leather with a plush lining to add some padding to the toes. However, the blunt toe box, coupled with the thick C4 sole and stiff midsole, make it difficult in thin cracks to really stuff your toes in and gain good purchase. It’s really only in Ringlocks, around the red Alien or purple Camalot size, that things get tricky and another thin crack style shoe may be preferable. If you don’t mind having two pairs of crack shoes, then this is not a problem and the Hi-Top will propel you upward flawlessly on thin hands to off-width, leaving your ankles fully armored against all those cracks that want to grind you down.

Posted in Climbing Equipment, Gear Reviews, Rock Climbing | Leave a comment

Field Trip to Toroweap, Grand Canyon National Park

The ZAC crew at Toroweap, Grand Canyon

The ZAC crew at Toroweap, Grand Canyon

Living in the shadows of Zion National Park, sometimes it’s hard to understand that there can be beauty anywhere else. Two weeks ago, several staff members took a day trip to check out Toroweap and the Grand Canyon. So after a quick stop at Deep Creek Coffee in Springdale, the ZAC staff drove the four and a half hours to check out the canyon. The drive begins with crossing through something familiar, and occasionally routine for me, Zion National Park. On our drive, bighorn sheep and mule deer greeted us as we drove through the east side. Since we left early in the morning, we were lucky enough to catch some of the sunrise on our drive. Between the majestic colors and good conversation, the drive went by quickly. The town of Fredonia is a small Arizona border town. And no road trip through a border town is complete without a stop for Lottery, Guns, Ammo, and Beer! So after a brief stop filling up our coffee cups and Landcruiser at Judd’s Auto, we moved on.

Looking down into the Grand Canyon from Toroweap Campground

Looking down into the Grand Canyon from Toroweap Campground

We eventually turned onto a dirt road for beautiful views of desert plains and distant mountains for 60 long, rutted miles. At this point, there isn’t much to do except listen to music and marvel at how your vehicle dust travels for miles in the wind. On the drive out, we stopped at the ranger station to meet Marjorie and learn some information about the area. I highly recommend always stopping in to at least say hello. The two Tweep area rangers live in a desert home that makes most hermits look like city folk. However, that isn’t a negative by far! Views of Trumbull Mountain and the Vulcan’s Throne would make any morning wake-up call special. And just a short drive away, they have a relatively convenient 3,000-foot drop to the Colorado River!

The campground was once described to me as having the world’s most scenic outhouse. And believe you-me, it’s no lie! The campground is situated on a beautiful rise that overlooks Saddle Horse Canyon and the Grand Canyon. Several day-hikes in the area give a greater overview of what exactly our little slice of desert in the southwest is like. From Toroweap Overlook, you’re also able to see Lava Falls, which is considered by some as one of the most difficult rapid on the Colorado. If you’re lucky, like we were, you’ll get the experience of watching one of lucky permitted trips float down through.

If you have a four-wheel drive vehicle, patience for driving long dirt roads, and the desire to view a secluded area of the Grand Canyon then Toroweap is a great destination to roll into a Zion-area visit. So check the weather for a sunny week, free up your schedule, and take a trip out to Tuweep. Spend an evening enjoying the silence of vastness of the Grand Canyon, go exploring on hikes, enjoy a sunrise and sunset, and I promise you’ll be amazed and humbled by the experience! And don’t forget to stop in and say hi to Marjorie!

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Filson Outdoor Clothing Features ZAC Guide Ben Rhinesmith


Our very own Ben Rhinesmith was recently profiled in Filson’s “In the Field” section of their website. In the video, Ben guides the Filson crew down Battle Creek, a high country canyon southeast of Kolob Reservoir, while talking a little bit about his guiding approach and philosophy.

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Winter Grand Circle Field Trips

Our 2012 season has been rewarding in many ways. We have had enjoyable experiences with thousands of new visitors. Our staff has been the happiest, healthiest, and most cohesive of my eight seasons at ZAC. We head into December celebrating the largest winter staff in our history, as eleven staff will continue work in some capacity. Winter is a time of reflection, relaxation, rejuvenation, improvement, creativity, and innovation. We look for ways to improve ourselves and the way we do things.

One such initiative is the Staff Winter Grand Circle Field Trips. With enthusiasm, we are eagerly visiting places visitors often ask about, or even tell us stories about. Our goal is to broaden our skill level as information givers by becoming familiar with more of the Southwest, its places, and context. We journey to destinations few, sometimes none of us have visited, putting staff in charge of planning the trip who have never been. (We love adventure, too.)

In the coming weeks, you will see ZAC blog articles of our exploits and the potentially hilarious hijinks that ensue. We aim to travel to Toroweap, Escalante, Antelope Canyon, and more. Our aim is to use these field trip experiences to further pursue our mission of helping each other learn, grow, explore, relate and reconnect.

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Zion Narrows Fall Colors Video

Long-time ZAC client Jerry King visits us at least every year, regularly recording his hikes and canyon descents via video and still images. When Jerry gets home, he puts together some nice informational videos about the adventures he goes on. If you are thinking about doing a Zion Narrow Through-Hike, check out Jerry’s movie to learn about the hike and see the Narrows in prime fall color splendor.

Posted in Autumn, Canyoneering, Seasonal, The Narrows, Trip Reports, Videos, Zion | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Imlay Canyon Trip Report, 9.2.2012

Went through Full Imlay Canyon with Steve Brezovec and Kelly Birdwell – to enjoy the canyon, of course, and to work on the anchors. Found some interesting things.

We started the canyon from Potato Hollow, from the very tip-top there, a few hundred yards higher than I had before. We used a retrievable anchor off a tree in order to not leave a sling visible to the public.

Downcanyon a ways, we found a tied off rock for the third stage of a rappel that can be done as a three-stage rap. This rock as cleverly wedged in a slot, but was tied off with some cord which was quite pretty, but had a core of paper (indicating that this cord was never intended for any purpose requiring strength).

Further down, we found an anchor tied with a non-knot (versus a Water Knot)… but I guess it held for whomever tied it.

Short drop off a log jam anchor, Imlay Canyon

Quite a few anchors in the canyon were tied with the Minnesota-clip style of equalization – especially scary since on a lot of these two-bolt anchors, one bolt is an ancient eroded stud-type bolt (very unreliable). We re-rigged 4 or 5 anchors usually with fresh webbing.

The upper section of the canyon was not especially full, and water quality was exceptionally poor. Between the Sneak Route entrance(s) and the bivy Alcove was a 20′ tall wood jam (in one section) and a section of dense log stew. The long two-stage rap, though, was free of debris. Water from the pool at the Alcove was murky, but we were able to filter and purify.

Log jams in the next section were present, but less of a problem than I had expected. Going into the first Extreme Narrows, we passed a group of 5 from Arizona who were wrapping a tweaked ankle from hitting a rock on a downclimb. Water quality was good and water level high for the rest of the canyon. We added a 1/2″ x 3-3/4″ to two anchors that did not have at least one bolt in the upper Narrows, including the rap into Big Bertha.

Pressed by time, we did passed on re-bolting in the lower Narrows, but no anchors were at the same level of “scary” as the two in the upper Narrows we reinforced. At the second-to-last rappel, someone had added a bolt to the dangling chain/hanger Jonathan had left earlier in the year, so it was now up to snuff. I brought a bar to torque out the bolts from the cut-through aluminum hangers, and with the bar they came out easily. I added a steel hanger and put one of them back in, but was out of rapid links, so it is not tied into the chain.

Several of the pothole anchors in the lower section were of the Minnesota-clip style mentioned above, and we re-rigged cordalette-style with fresh webbing.

At the final rappel, Steve and Kelly took off to catch their plane while I stayed and added a bolt to the anchor. In this case, the two-bolt anchor is in a precarious position, and a convenient safety line runs between the good two-bolt anchor and the old two-bolt anchor on the wall before that. The two ancient bolts are of the eroded rawl-stud variety which in my book are very suspect. I placed a 1/2″ x 3-3/4″ bolt in this position to supply a secure starting point for the safety line.

The third party in Imlay that day caught me up just as I was finishing the ‘work’, and generously carried my ropes out the Zion Narrows – my pack being conveniently full before adding the 235 feet of rope from the last rap. Thank you Evan, Susie and crew from S.G.

Great canyon, as always. My thanks to Steve and Kelly for the patience to allow for some anchor maintenance work.

Tom

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American Canyoneers Elects New Official Board

American Canyoneers, a non-profit canyoneering organization promoting canyon access, environmental protection, and safety, transitioned from its initial Interim Board of Directors to its first regular Board of Directors after its the membership voted in July. You can meet the new American Canyoneers Board of Directors on their website… or maybe you’ll bump into one of them in a canyon somewhere.

Thanks to the outgoing interim Board for their initiative and leadership over the last nine months. It is incredibly difficult to get a non-profit going starting with zero budget or staff, but this group made it happen, and they seem to be doing it the right way with 501c3 status, good transparency, and member support. Joining American Canyoneers is a great way to support canyoneering, and it only costs $5! If you’re interested, join American Canyoneers and get involved.

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Virgin River Flash Flood Video

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Mike and Seth caught some revealing footage of the Virgin River in scary flash flood mode as it carried a huge cottonwood tree down-river like an insignificant Poohstick. See how dark the water is? The color comes from the high load of silt, mud, and rock the river picks up in a flood event. 95% of the erosion in Zion happens in punctuated events like this, where sudden, heavy rains create high-volume, high-velocity river conditions that pick up tons and tons of sediment and move it downstream. Once the momentum gets going, all that debris can scour banks and displace large areas of sediment, replacing ankle-deep shallows with deep pools, and vice-versa. It’s super fun to explore the river after a flood event like this and try to find the best “new” swimming holes the flood has created.

The guys filmed this footagee just above the Springdale River Park, where we pick up tubers at the end of their runs. Seems like tubing would be a little extreme with that amount of water and debris in the river, don’t you think? If you want to see a flash flood, I highly recommend a viewing it from a safe place like this, versus the in-canyon flash flood viewing a couple of our staff caught a couple weeks ago.

Posted in Natural History, Safety, Seasonal, Springdale, Summer, The Narrows, Tubing, Weather & Climate, Zion National Park | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment